When making dresses and skirts, I prefer to put in a zipper (always invisible) along the side seam, rather than the center back, whenever possible. I feel a zipper is less conspicuous on the side, and the garment looks more composed when put together this way.
I am also one for side pockets–deep, wide pockets hidden within fully gathered skirts and circle skirts, the kind of pockets you can tuck your entire hand into, or use to carry a wallet or cellphone. One thing that frustrates me about women's retail clothing is the lack of pockets, and the pathetically minuscule size of the pockets that do exist, especially when compared with menswear. It's inconvenient, and there is no reason to exclude pockets (unless the garment is extremely fitted). I find the lack of pockets in women's daywear a product of the throw-away "trendy" fashion system, in which clothes are only made to last a season. But I digress...
When sewing my own clothes, I've always faced a dilemma: either sew in a side zipper, or sew in side pockets. But I've finally figured out a way to have my cake and eat it, too! I've already used this method while making a dress (shown at the top) and pair of shorts, and I'm very happy with the results. So much so that I even plan to sew pockets in my wedding dress.
I am also one for side pockets–deep, wide pockets hidden within fully gathered skirts and circle skirts, the kind of pockets you can tuck your entire hand into, or use to carry a wallet or cellphone. One thing that frustrates me about women's retail clothing is the lack of pockets, and the pathetically minuscule size of the pockets that do exist, especially when compared with menswear. It's inconvenient, and there is no reason to exclude pockets (unless the garment is extremely fitted). I find the lack of pockets in women's daywear a product of the throw-away "trendy" fashion system, in which clothes are only made to last a season. But I digress...
When sewing my own clothes, I've always faced a dilemma: either sew in a side zipper, or sew in side pockets. But I've finally figured out a way to have my cake and eat it, too! I've already used this method while making a dress (shown at the top) and pair of shorts, and I'm very happy with the results. So much so that I even plan to sew pockets in my wedding dress.
Normally, a pocket is put in by cutting four pocket pieces and a skirt front and skirt back piece. Each pocket piece is sewn to a different raw edge of the four skirt sides (with the right sides facing together). Then, the pockets are pressed outward, the skirt front is placed right-sides-together with the skirt back, the curve of the pocket is sewn, and the side seams are sewn, leaving open along the pocket area. Finally, the top of the pocket is turned into the front, and basted along the top raw edge to hold it in place. See below:
This standard method, however, makes it impossible to sew a zipper into the side seam, because the pocket connects the front and back, and therefore interferes with the zipper, which needs to be sewn one side to the front, one side to the back. I realized that to sew in a zipper, I would need to make sure the entire pocket was sewn only onto the front of the skirt, so that I would have completely separate front and back pieces.
DIY, Step-by-Step: Sew a Side Zipper with a Side Pocket
Here is how I did it: Notes:
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